Using the Stalled Bottle/Missing Foil/Loose Cap Detection on your Unifoiler series induction cap sealer.
First, determine which feature you will be using. Once determined, the proper dip switch must be set on the front display board. Please refer to the owner’s manual for dip switch designation. Once you have the correct dip switches activated for the selected functions you are ready to train the capsealer.
The first task is to align the sensors. The stalled bottle entrance and exit sensor should be aimed at the middle of the cap. The stalled bottle entrance sensor is noted as sensor #1 and the stalled bottle exit sensor is noted as #2. The next step is to align the foil sensor. It should be positioned so it is centered over the cap as it travels past the sensor. It also must be low enough to detect the foil liner inside the cap, but not too low. If it is set too low it will block the loose cap sensor. Finally the loose cap sensor needs to be aligned. The loose cap detector is labeled sensor #3. It should be aimed just above the cap, but not too high. If set too high it will be blocked by the foil detector. Now the microprocessor can be trained.
With the sensors now aligned for the chosen bottle, start the conveyor. Press the button labeled RUN/SET-UP. Now the digital meter should be displaying a number. That number is a reference coming from the line speed encoder. This will tell the microprocessor how long it takes a bottle to get from the entrance sensor to the exit sensor. It also tells the microprocessor if the conveyor is moving or not. Now, take a bottle with a foil lined cap. Put the bottle on the conveyor so that it passes through the entire detection system. When the bottle goes through the detection system pay attention to the fault lights on the front panel. During a proper set-up, as the bottle passes the stalled bottle entrance sensor, the fault light for ‘stalled bottle’ should flash. Then, as the bottle passes through the exit group it should flash ‘stalled bottle’ and ‘missing foil.’ It should not flash ‘loose cap’. If it does, the sensor for ‘loose cap’ is set too low. If it does not flash ‘missing foil’ the foil sensor is set too high. If it does not flash ‘stalled bottle’ check the alignment of those sensors.
After a correct set-up is achieved it is time to exit the set-up mode. Simply press the RUN/SET-UP button. After exiting the set-up mode you will be able to determine if a correct set-up has been achieved. If an incorrect set-up occurred a fault light for ‘stalled bottle,’ ‘missing foil’ or ‘loose cap’ will appear. None of those three fault lights will appear if the set-up was successful. You are now ready to use your stalled bottle / missing foil / lose cap detection system.
Are you aware that our sealing coils can be repaired down to the very component?
The non-epoxy potted modular design allows for the repair not replacement, thus reducing your overall operating costs. For example, if you have an electrical short between the copper windings or cracked ferrites, they can be replaced because they are not epoxy potted. Many of our competitors epoxy their coils causing replacement and more overall operating cost to you.
Check your sealing coil alignment for more consistent sealing
One of the most critical elements with induction sealing is ensuring proper sealing coil alignment because the design of the coil itself. Here are some quick checks you can do to ensure that your sealing head is properly aligned.
If you have a dedicated flat coil it must be parallel with respect to the conveyor. That includes front to back as well as side to side. Lower the sealing coil to approximately 1/8-inch from the top of the cap. Then with a bottle on each end of the sealing coil, find the center marks on the ends of the coil. Adjust the sealing coil so the center marks on the end are aligned with the center of the cap.
If you have a universal coil, after you adjust the center-lines, you will need to angle the coil. Simply skew the coil on its center point until the black centerline is approximately – inch outside the edge of the bottle. This is done to seal larger size caps. You may also want to adjust the side rails of your conveyor to ensure a repetitive flow of bottles.
If you have a channel style coil you will have to ensure the sealing coil is parallel with respect to the conveyor. Then adjust your conveyor rails to maintain a repetitive flow of bottles. Lower the sealing head until the black marks on the end of the channel are even with the land surface of the bottle. Then adjust the coil so the travel of the bottles are down the center of the coil and not off to one side.
Perform these checks on a regular basis to ensure and even improve your sealing consistency.
If you’re not sure what style of sealing coil you have call the Pillar Technologies Service Department at 262-912-7200 and we will be glad to help you.
Want to prevent damage to your sealing head?
The number one cause of damage to a sealing head is loss of water flow, coupled with a faulty flow switch needing replacement. Here are some simple checks that can save you money and down time.
Check the filter screen in the water pump. Under the large acorn nut on the water pump is a filter screen designed to trap dirt. At least once a month this should be removed, blown-out with an air hose and placed back in the pump.This ensures clean water flow to cool the sealing head.
Check the condition of the flow switch. The flow switch is the most critical part of the water system. It is an open switch that closes when water flow is introduced. This completes the interlock in the start circuit of the capsealer. If there is no water flow it will not start. If the water in the recirculator is dirty, the flow switch builds-up dirt and eventually stays in the closed position. Now, if there no water flow it will allow the capsealer to start because the flow switch is stuck in the closed position. Check your flow switch with an Ohm-meter. If the flow switch is good you will read an open with no water flow and a short when the recirculator is turned on.
Clean the water recirculator. Once or twice a year empty, clean and replace the distilled water and Pillar Defense solution inside of the recirculator.
Keep your waterless induction sealer cool!
Waterless induction sealers depend on airflow for cooling, whereas the water-cooled capsealers depend on water flow to cool the sealing head. The loss of airflow can shorten the life of the sealing head and could result in production downtime.
Check the operation of both the blower and fan on the sealing head. The blower and fan are used to move air across a heat sink inside of the sealing head. Without air movement the coil gets hot enough to trip a temperature switch located on the heat sink. If the temperature switch trips you will not be allowed to restart the capsealer until the sealing head has cooled down. Long-term effects could be burning of wire insulation, causing a short circuit in the sealing head or melting of the bottom plate.
Check the power supply fan. Inside the power supply there are components that require a cooling fan. Without the aid of a fan, the electronic components will reach a temperature that will trigger a temperature switch mounted to the heat sink. The power supply will shut down and a temperature fault will be displayed. The capsealer will not be able to restart until the temperature switch resets.
Check all cooling fan filters. Each of the fans on the capsealer has a filter. These filters must be cleaned or replaced to ensure proper cooling throughout the sealing head and power supply.
Are your sensors at fault?
The cause of many stalled bottle faults are fiber optic sensors that are either out of alignment or faulty. When this is the case, the microprocessor or PLC in the stalled bottle detection system thinks the sensor is being blocked and will issue a stalled bottle fault. There are some simple checks you can make to determine if this is causing a failure.
Locate the fiber optic amplifiers used in the stalled bottle detection. With nothing between the two fiber optic sensors the amplifier should only have the green LED illuminated. If there is no bottle between the two sensors and both the green and red LED lights are illuminated, there is a fault condition.
The first check is ensuring the fiber optic sensor cables are seated all the way into the amplifier. Remove the fiber optic sensor from the amplifier. Using a fiber optic cutter trim the end of the cable. Put the fiber optic sensor cables back into the amplifier and ensure that they are seated all the way in.
The second check is the alignment of the two fiber optic sensor cables. Loosen one of the fiber optic sensor cables. Move the cable up and down, observing the fiber optic amplifier. If the red
LED light goes out, tighten the nut that attaches the fiber optic sensor to the bracket. If it does not go out, make the last check.
The final step is to replace your fiber optic sensor cables. These often get bumped and damaged by line operators. When they are bumped, they often crack at the point where the fiber optic sensor cable meets the metal ferrule mounted to the sensor bracket. To strengthen this point we are currently using a through-hole standoff that threads over the cable and ferrule union.
E-mail your questions to firstname.lastname@example.org, or call (888) PILLAR-6 (888-745-5276) x309.